Post by Larry Walters on Nov 28, 2006 13:57:48 GMT -5
Repost from SuperSpeedway.net forums... not sure if it's really useful, but interesting no doubt.
The following was posted from Papy guidelines based on expert testing.
I don't/can't follow everything but the info is supposed to be accurate for the physics engine.
Super-Duper-Speedway,
Super-Speedway, &
Speedway:
LS optimum pressure is 34 and temp is 210°
RS optimum pressure is 56 and temp is 239°
Short Track
LS optimum pressure is 28 and temp is 210°
RS optimum pressure is 42 and temp is 239°
Road Course
Optimum pressure at all 4 corners is 26 and temp is 210°
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Optimum Overworked but Ok for hot laps/qualifying
LS 200-215° LS 216-225°
RS 230-245° RS 246-259°
The following is somewhat subjective:
Front camber:
Good operating temperature range is from 8-16° on the LF and 5-12° on the RF.
Rear camber should not be considered.
Over / under inflation should not be considered based on the middle tire temp. The middle temp should be the avg. of the outer temps this is under ideal conditions. More important is the pressures effect on overall temp of the tire. On hot days, it may be advisable to have a middle temp that is as much as 5 or 6 degrees hotter than the outsides edges to help keep the overall temp cooler. On colder days, it may be that you want your middle temp as cool as the outside edge.
When judging whether a setup is loose based on temps, the particular model being used and the chassis type (short track, speedway, etc.) should be considered. For example, with the truck mod at a Super-Speedway, for a neutral setup the front tires may still be as much as 10-15° cooler when the tires are fully heated up. At a short track in the truck mod, the front tires may be only 5° hotter than the rear tires whereas with the Cup car, the front's may be as much as 15-20° hotter on a short track. The following are my personal recommendations of what I feel is a neutral setup per mod & chassis type.
Note:
The tires are considered to be fully heated/pressured when they no longer increase temp and just before temp starts to taper off. It may take quite a few laps before the tires reach this stage. IMHO, taking tire temps in the first 10 laps is pretty much useless. The following are my recommended temperatures just before the taper off begins.
Truck mod
Super-Speedways - Front 5-15° cooler
Speedways - Front 5° cooler - 5° hotter
Short tracks - Front 5-10° hotter
GNS mod
Super-Speedways - Front 0-5° cooler
Speedways - Front 0-5° hotter
Short tracks - Front 5-15° hotter
Cup
Super-Speedways - Front 0-5° hotter
Speedways - Front 5-15° hotter
Short tracks - Front 10-20° hotter
The above tire temps are what I personally feel is a neutral setup. Again, IMHO, it can't be overstated that a tighter setup may be the right way to go during race conditions. A looser setup is only faster if you can drive it and does not necessarily equate to better tire wear. Any time you scrub a tire, you're going to prematurely wear the tire and you can scrub the front tires just as much or more with a loose setup as you can a tight one. Usually, people feel they are getting better tire wear when they wear the front and rear tires evenly. A looser setup usually provides this but it can also mean that you're wearing out both the front's and rear's quicker than a guy that's running a tighter / more balanced setup.
I'm not sure if you need to implement pressures except for looking at left to right balance. In other words, say you're running on a cool day so you need to lower your pressures to build some more heat, if you're hot pressures are a couple of lbs lower than optimum on the RS, they probably should be within the same range on the left side. My theory is you're really looking to get to the right temps with the pressures based on weather and small tweaking for handling. Personally, I don't look at what the temp difference is on the left side vs. the right side, I just look to see where my hot pressures are at compared to optimum for that side. There are special cases for that too like at Super-Speedways. You can get your LS pressures way above optimum without sacrificing too much grip.
I would not look at the middle temp at all. While I believe there is some small consideration in the model for over/under inflation, it's far more important to keep the tire at it's right operating temp and as close as possible to the optimum pressure.
The following was posted from Papy guidelines based on expert testing.
I don't/can't follow everything but the info is supposed to be accurate for the physics engine.
Super-Duper-Speedway,
Super-Speedway, &
Speedway:
LS optimum pressure is 34 and temp is 210°
RS optimum pressure is 56 and temp is 239°
Short Track
LS optimum pressure is 28 and temp is 210°
RS optimum pressure is 42 and temp is 239°
Road Course
Optimum pressure at all 4 corners is 26 and temp is 210°
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Optimum Overworked but Ok for hot laps/qualifying
LS 200-215° LS 216-225°
RS 230-245° RS 246-259°
The following is somewhat subjective:
Front camber:
Good operating temperature range is from 8-16° on the LF and 5-12° on the RF.
Rear camber should not be considered.
Over / under inflation should not be considered based on the middle tire temp. The middle temp should be the avg. of the outer temps this is under ideal conditions. More important is the pressures effect on overall temp of the tire. On hot days, it may be advisable to have a middle temp that is as much as 5 or 6 degrees hotter than the outsides edges to help keep the overall temp cooler. On colder days, it may be that you want your middle temp as cool as the outside edge.
When judging whether a setup is loose based on temps, the particular model being used and the chassis type (short track, speedway, etc.) should be considered. For example, with the truck mod at a Super-Speedway, for a neutral setup the front tires may still be as much as 10-15° cooler when the tires are fully heated up. At a short track in the truck mod, the front tires may be only 5° hotter than the rear tires whereas with the Cup car, the front's may be as much as 15-20° hotter on a short track. The following are my personal recommendations of what I feel is a neutral setup per mod & chassis type.
Note:
The tires are considered to be fully heated/pressured when they no longer increase temp and just before temp starts to taper off. It may take quite a few laps before the tires reach this stage. IMHO, taking tire temps in the first 10 laps is pretty much useless. The following are my recommended temperatures just before the taper off begins.
Truck mod
Super-Speedways - Front 5-15° cooler
Speedways - Front 5° cooler - 5° hotter
Short tracks - Front 5-10° hotter
GNS mod
Super-Speedways - Front 0-5° cooler
Speedways - Front 0-5° hotter
Short tracks - Front 5-15° hotter
Cup
Super-Speedways - Front 0-5° hotter
Speedways - Front 5-15° hotter
Short tracks - Front 10-20° hotter
The above tire temps are what I personally feel is a neutral setup. Again, IMHO, it can't be overstated that a tighter setup may be the right way to go during race conditions. A looser setup is only faster if you can drive it and does not necessarily equate to better tire wear. Any time you scrub a tire, you're going to prematurely wear the tire and you can scrub the front tires just as much or more with a loose setup as you can a tight one. Usually, people feel they are getting better tire wear when they wear the front and rear tires evenly. A looser setup usually provides this but it can also mean that you're wearing out both the front's and rear's quicker than a guy that's running a tighter / more balanced setup.
I'm not sure if you need to implement pressures except for looking at left to right balance. In other words, say you're running on a cool day so you need to lower your pressures to build some more heat, if you're hot pressures are a couple of lbs lower than optimum on the RS, they probably should be within the same range on the left side. My theory is you're really looking to get to the right temps with the pressures based on weather and small tweaking for handling. Personally, I don't look at what the temp difference is on the left side vs. the right side, I just look to see where my hot pressures are at compared to optimum for that side. There are special cases for that too like at Super-Speedways. You can get your LS pressures way above optimum without sacrificing too much grip.
I would not look at the middle temp at all. While I believe there is some small consideration in the model for over/under inflation, it's far more important to keep the tire at it's right operating temp and as close as possible to the optimum pressure.
